As the RMS approached St Helena and the huge craggy volcanic outline of the island came into view, it was impossible to imagine the contrasts that awaited us, or the range of flora and fauna that we would experience during our three weeks’ Sabbatical on St Helena, working with the Invasive Species Project Officer Andrew Darlow.

Our normal day jobs with the RSPB are mainly office bound – Gillian Baggott organising corporate events, and Sue Steptoe responsible for the trustees who govern the RSPB.  The duo were accompanied by Gillian’s husband, Des, a builder and keen ‘birder’ and wildlife photographer.

Here on St Helena we have been undertaking voluntary conservation work and experiencing a different kind of working environment  that tests your fitness and stamina – gradients that leave you gasping for breath and your heart pounding, but which build up muscles you never knew existed! And what an experience it has proved to be, as we have witnessed amazing landscapes and a range of species found nowhere else in the world: Wirebirds, Gumwood trees, Boxwood, ferns and a host of other endemic plants.

But the Sabbatical has also shown us the impact that other species – invasive ones - can have on an island’s endemic flora.  We have battled with New Zealand flax to stop it smothering the amazing tree ferns (Dicksonia arborescens) that grace the slopes of Diana’s Peak National Park.  We have wrestled with tungi and wild coffee to provide Scrubwood bushes (Commidendrum rugosum) with space to flourish, and have collected seed from a range of endemic plants so that St Helena can establish a seed bank and ensure that future generations have the opportunity to enjoy the unique plants that have graced St Helena’s landscape for centuries.

Until you come to an island like St Helena it is difficult to appreciate the impact that invasive species can have.  Back in the UK many people plant New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax) for decorative purposes.  On St Helena it was originally grown as a crop, to provide fibre which could be used for a variety of products. But the clearance of land for its production had a serious impact on the endemic flora, and its invasive qualities have continued to have an impact, as we discovered during a walk along Cabbage Tree Road on our way to Diana’s Peak.  Although much has already been done to clear flax from different parts of the island, the task is a massive one and it is understandable why it has been left in many areas to reduce the impact of erosion. 

Hensil grubs out invasive Creeper in Deadwood mitigation paddock

Efforts to control the invasive species mean that something is needed to replace them and that is one of the reasons behind the Seed Collection Programme, a recently established partnership project to preserve St Helena’s endemic flora.  We were privileged to join staff and volunteers from the Agriculture and Natural Resources Department (ARND), St Helena National Trust and the Invasive Species Project to collect seeds from  St Helena Rosemary, Scrubwood, Boxwood, Hair grass and False Gumwood during our Sabbatical.  Lots of volunteers are needed to assist with the Seed Collection Programme so if you have time to spare on Tuesday mornings why not help with this worthwhile project as it’s great fun.  Contact Rebecca Cairns-Wicks, Acting Director of the National Trust if you are interested.

Another worthwhile project that captured our interest is the Millennium Forest on Horse Point, and with the generous support of family and friends back in the UK we raised £600 to sponsor  the planting of 100 new Gumwood trees (Commidendrum robustum) in the forest.  It was pleasing to see how the Gumwoods planted back in 2000 are faring, especially the young seedlings that now carpet parts of the forest floor.

Luckily for us, the Wirebird Census coincided with our Sabbatical and we were fortunate to join National Trust conservation officer, Eddie Duff in monitoring the population of this special indigenous bird.  We soon understood why this small, long-legged, grey-brown plover (Charadrius sanctae-helenae) is much loved by the Saints.  It has a personality all of its own as it scratches around in search of caterpillars, beetles and snails, or feigns a broken wing routine to protect its nest from predators or human intruders.  The population of this bird – the national bird of St Helena – continues to fluctuate, and with a worldwide population of around 350 birds this is cause for concern.  The main factors limiting its population appear to be habitat degradation, the proliferation of invasive plants and predation, especially by feral cats. We were surprised to see feral cats prowling around in such barren, hostile locations as the Erosion Zone of Deadwood Plain.

Gillian Baggott collecting St Helena Rosemary

With financial support from the RSPB, PhD student Fiona Burns has been researching the Wirebird to understand what factors drive their population numbers and to compare the efficacy of different conservation options.  It was fascinating to watch Fiona  - and Eddie Duff – at work, and a real privilege to experience them catch and ring Wirebird chicks.  We have since adopted two of them through the National Trust’s ‘Adopt a Wirebird’ scheme.

A chance opportunity to help monitor the Brown noddies on Egg Island proved another amazing experience when we joined staff from the Fisheries Directorate at ARND in searching for nests on this small volcanic island.  Dodging the dive-bombing  noddies is quite an art, but we survived with only a few tell-tale signs on our clothing.  Tiny chicks are so well camouflaged in crevices in the rocks that you have to search carefully to find them.

St Helena has revealed itself to be an island of contrasts, from the stark volcanic rock that greets you on arrival by the RMS to the lush, green countryside that awaits you on the interior.  The landscapes, the plants, the birds and especially the people make St Helena a unique place and we feel extremely privileged to have had the opportunity to spend our RSPB Sabbatical here and learn about this little gem among the UK Overseas Territories.

RSPB staff members, Sue Steptoe and Gillian Baggott, and Gillian’s husband, Des
January & February 2009

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