The Peaks arguably the most special place on St Helena, where remnants of our original cloud forest - an extraordinarily biologically rich habitat – survive.

But what are the Peaks?

The Peaks are part of the central ridge which forms a huge curve around Sandy Bay from Hoopers Rock (>700m) in the west, northeastwards via the Depot (>670m), High Peak (798m) and Mount Vesey (>740m) on to Casons Gate (>690m) and east along the Sandy Bay Ridge to Stiches Ridge and to the three Peaks – often referred to as the Peaks - of Cuckhold’s Point (800m), Diana’s Peak, the highest point of the Island at 820m, and Mount Actaeon the southern most extension of the ridge. The Central ridge has much higher rainfall than elsewhere on the Island, and for much of the time is shrouded in mist.

And, what is a Cloud Forest?

Think cloud forests and some people might think of South America and Costa Rica, but St Helena too can proclaim to have its own unique cloud forest. Cloud forests are unique ecosystems that occur only in specific tropical mountain areas. They are:

• A cloud forest is a specific type of rainforest.

• Cloud forests are found only in mountain areas.

• Temperatures are much cooler than in surrounding lowland forests.

• The forest is immersed in clouds most of the time, with water being deposited directly from the clouds onto leaves and other vegetation.

Low cloudbanks form over the mountains such that the forest is actually immersed in clouds much of the time. When this happens, the relative humidity is 100%, making cloud forests exceedingly wet places. Water is deposited directly onto vegetation from clouds and light mist. This regular supply of above-ground water makes a cloud forest excellent habitat for epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants). Tree fern and Cabbage tree trunks are almost always covered with mosses, ferns, seedlings of other plants of the forest and other plants. The operation of evolution would suggest that the endemic vegetation which has developed there would become well adapted to intercepting the water from mists as well as rainfall. The distinctive weather conditions make them suitable for hundreds of plants and animals to survive that can be found nowhere else on Earth.

What value the Peaks ?

St Helena’s own unique cloud forest Most of the plants and animals of the Peaks are found nowhere else on Earth. And we should be reminded that this is “a heritage not just for St Helenian’s but for all humans; we shall be the poorer if they cannot be saved”

1. Rich biological heritage

• It is home to some of the rarest plants on the planet. 18 out of 37 species of endemic flowering plants grow on the Peaks. One of which is the Critically Endangered Large Bellflower pictured.

• It is home to an amazing variety of over 300 species of endemic invertebrate (of c.420 endemic species for the whole island) The Spiky Yellow Woodlouse pictured below has only been recorded from High Peak. It’s ancient invertebrates like this that are our equivalent of Dinosaurs.

• 12 out of 13 endemic species of fern grow on the Peaks Critically Endangered Toothed-Tongue Fern pictured below only survives in a few places along the Central Ridge

• It is home to an unknown number of species of lower plants (mosses, lichens, liverworts) Any losses, like the extinction of the St Helena Olive in 2003, mean a loss to global biodiversity.

2. Water Catchment

The majority of streams or guts that supply much of the surface water for St Helena have their sources within the upland areas. Water demands are only set to rise with the development on an airport and associated development. Managing our water catchments to optimize ground water recharge and surface water runoff will make an important contribution to the Island’s available water resources.

3. History

Experimental & unsustainable land use practises. Since 1502 the island’s landscape has been shaped by man. The decline of the Peaks habitats coincides with attempts in history to establish economic prosperity through agriculture: pasture, forestry and attempts at establishing other agricultural crops such as quinine and most recently flax.

Jellico pictured above, was one of the few endemics that was eaten. Growing in the guts of the Peaks, the long stems were cut and taken to market to sell, probably as a rich source of vitamin C.

4. Amenity and tourism

The Peaks are an attractive landscape that is interesting to explore for locals and tourists alike. Wildlife tourism is a small industry now that has potential to grow. If tourism is to be sustained we must make sure we protect the very assets upon which our industry will be based.

5. Scientific value

St Helena’s endemics largely represent ancient forms of species long since extinct elsewhere in the world (with some local evolution). The plants and animals of the Peaks are the most ancient and peculiar of our endemics with closest relatives as far apart as Australisia, South America, and the Pacific Islands. The Whitewood (not to be confused with Whiteweed), our most peculiar endemic has its most closest relative in French Polynesia. These unusual endemic genera are an important resource for science, with potential for studying extinctions and evolution in adjacent continental regions and in-situ evolution.

Having explored the central ridge, the most special thing I feel about the Peaks is that despite being desperately small in size, many of the plants and their attendant animals that make up this unique cloud forest ecosystem are still there. Let’s make sure they are there for future generations to enjoy.

Why not explore this unique ecosystem for yourself or visit on one of our guided walks.

For further information contact Rebecca Cairns-Wicks on 4419 or email the National Trust at sth.nattrust@helanta.sh

Related Information

Peaks Update November 2004

Peaks Update February 2005

Invasive Species Project introduced to St Helena